The Little Mermaid statue overlooks the sea at Langelinie in Copenhagen, representing a character from a Hans Christian Anderson tale. Although she is only four feet tall—or maybe because she’s so small—this sculpture has a strong emotional power in person.

Laura, Al, and I pose on the Copenhagen harbor outside the opera house. The dome we are holding between our heads is Frederiks Kirke, or the Marble Church.

Commuters ride bikes in Copenhagen. This is a common way to get around, and a popular alternative to cars among people of all ages and fitness. The reasonable Danes don’t wear helmets because they don’t crash.

You can rent electric boats and float along Copenhagen Harbor. Here a happy group of friends enjoys the sight of the Royal Danish Opera House, which was designed by Danish architects, of course—and whose high cost is often debated by the frugal Danes!

My mom’s cousin Lisbeth came from Viborg to have dinner and a walk with us in Randers. Lisbeth is wonderful company and educated us on many Danish things—which makes sense, because she’s a teacher.

Lisbeth, Laura, and Al stand by the great horse of Randers. My grandpa Peter Jensen was a Queen’s Hussar in Denmark before emigrating to the U.S., where he became a horse trainer. Family legend said he was a member of the ‘landed gentry’ before Germans stole their horses. Lisbeth explained, “No, they were probably ordinary farmers like everyone else.” Reasonable.

Fredensborg Palace on the island of Zealand is the spring and summer residence of the Danish royal family. Danes seem proud of their cultural heritage and capable of enjoying royal traditions in a modern world.

Al appreciates a painting of the queen inside Frederiksborg Slot, a castle that is now a Danish art museum.

You can swim in Copenhagen Harbor! And we did! Once the Harbor was too polluted to swim, so the Danes quite reasonably decided to clean it up. Now you see lots of bathers on a warm sunny day.

Sunrise in a wildlife preserve outside Randers. My family had a farm somewhere out here in the Jutland peninsula, but I’m not sure yet where.